A century-old habit
Turkish tea culture is younger than most visitors assume. After the First World War, coffee imports became expensive, and the new republic planted tea on the wet Black Sea slopes around Rize. Within a generation çay had replaced coffee as the everyday drink and become the standard gesture of welcome.
The çaydanlık
Two stacked pots. Water boils in the lower; a strong concentrate steeps in the upper. Every glass is poured from the concentrate and cut with hot water, which is why you can ask for açık (light) or demli (strong) and get exactly that from the same pot.
The tulip glass
Small, waisted and clear. The waist keeps the top cool enough to hold, the small volume means the tea is always fresh rather than cooling, and the clear glass exists so you can judge the colour — tavşan kanı, 'rabbit's blood', is the ideal clear crimson.
When it is drunk
At breakfast, after breakfast, mid-morning, after lunch, in shops while you decide, on a ferry, after dinner, and with baklava. Refusing a glass is possible but takes practice.
Çay in Ubud
In Ubud, SkaZka Bali on Jl. Raya Sanggingan No.88, Ubud serves Turkish coffee brewed in a cezve rather than çay from a çaydanlık — the cezve side of Turkish hospitality, alongside shisha on the terrace at night.
Also searched as «турецкий чай», «türk çayı bali», «teh turki».
